a (fashion) shooter

Hello again.

by on Feb.08, 2012, under cameras, lighting & technique, Uncategorized

Hello again. And yes, A Fashion Shooter is back. Sort of. I am sorry for my absence, but I was busy doing things like moving to California, getting engaged, married, and having a baby! Oh, and flying back and forth between LA and NY for photo assignments.

Here’s the boy.

Hudson at 6 weeks

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one light wonders: a magazine + video shoot with just one light

by on May.03, 2009, under cameras, lighting & technique

                   

So I am posting some unedited video clips from an editorial shoot from last year for SOMA magazine. The still shots have been on my photo web site for some time, and were in the 2008 Fall Fashion issue of the magazine. Theses will hopefully give some idea as to the lighting setup. I like to keep it simple, and on this particular day I used one light only. The lighting seen here is a Profoto strobe pack with one head inside of a 4×6 softbox with the two baffles removed, in order to give it a hard shadow – hopefully resembling sunlight. The model is one of my favorites – Juliana Imai at Ford Models. The assistant and video shooter was Arturo Sanchez. (we shot the video on a whim, as I had a Canon G9 sitting on my desk at the time…) Anyway, as I said, it’s unedited, a little jerky, and loud…but you can also see some of the excitement which can occasionally he had when you’ve got the right crew. (To be sure, most of my shoots are not quite as fun as this one was…)
Camera used for the stills was a Canon 1Ds mark III and lenses were the 85mm 1.2 and the 50mm 1.4. 
(Of course, since we happened to be shooting video for all the web to see, the studio looks a shambles! But some of that mess is needed as you will read below…)
In these clips you can see the big black soft box to camera right, there are a couple black boards on the floor which are there to soak up some of the light so the shadows on the wall will go deeper black. Also, the black board on camera left at the back of thet set is there to make all of the shadows deeper – as we are in a small studio with white walls and a white ceiling, it’s very difficult to get dark shadows without the ugly black foam core boards scattered throughout ;-)
The below image is a fuzzy video still showing my setup for the SOMA shoot. Click it to enlarge it so you can read the labels which explain why the set is so cluttered ;-)

Untitled from afashionshooter on Vimeo.

afashionshooter.com SOMA clip 2 from afashionshooter on Vimeo.

afashionshooter.com SOMA clip 2 from afashionshooter on Vimeo.

 

Juliana tells them how it’s done from afashionshooter on Vimeo.

afashionshooter.com SOMA shoot – gorgeous Juliana 1271 from afashionshooter on Vimeo.

Either later today or tomorrow I will be posting several more clips…in the mean time, here’s what the stills looked like:

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more tests…and notes on lighting

by on Feb.17, 2009, under cameras

(I was trying to get off of this testing phase on this blog. and back to lighting, but I am still testing…)

In trying a third Canon 5D Mark II body today, it focuses better with the outer AF points, but they are still no good for full figure shots where the target is far off. Lots of out of focus ones. 

 

On a positive note, the outer AF points seem to work ok for waist-up shots. And the color on this one is FAR better than my other 5D2 bodies.

 

(If the skin tones look a little funny, that’s because they are. The model is going to Japan tomorrow, where they insist that the models be as pale as possible. So she’s been hiding from the sun ;-) And thus, copius amounts of spray-on tan were applied.)

 

Still, if I were shooting something critical and could not be tethered to a computer to check focus, I would not use this camera! The auto focus is just too dodgy on far away objects, even using the center point. Tis a pity.

 

p.s. Dear Canon: Isn’t the one-shot AF mode supposed to only take the shot when it’s achieved focus at the selected AF point? IF so, maybe part of this problem could be resolved with a firmare fix: make it so that in one-shot AF mode the camera actually does not take the shot if the image is out of focus. Would this work, or can the camera just not tell that the image is not in focus?

**notes on the lighting setup for the above shots will follow shortly**

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one light wonders – using a single light source in the studio

by on Dec.16, 2008, under lighting & technique

While admiring photographers who can handle many lights very well, like Joshua Jordan, I usually like to keep things on my sets as simple as possible. Why? Because I find that I feel freer to work with the talent when I am not thinking too much about equipment. Also when the lighting is more simple, the models can move around more freely without messing the whole thing up ;-)
Keeping it simple often that means using only daylight, or just one studio strobe – and maybe mix the one studio light with daylight. And often it means using a reflector or two. While it might sound limiting, it really isn’t. And if you are just starting to learn how to light things, or just like to travel light, it’s a good idea to explore all that can be done with one light source.
Using only the sun (daylight) is a good way to start. Everyone has taken photos using daylight, and everyone has seen some incredible images made using just the sun. The below gallery is all shot indoors with just daylight. Sometimes there was just one window, and in some cases there were multiple windows.
Seeing as you can do all these things with daylight inside, it should follow that one artificial light source in the studio could be just as be fruitful, no? Well, it can be. Soon I will post a few shots using single-source strobe lights (usually with large softboxes for diffusion.) I’ll do my best to describe exactly how I used them.
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food and drink with the Canon Rebel T21

by on May.21, 2011, under cameras, food

2010_07_28_1222 2010_07_28_1137

2010_07_28_1236

2010_07_28_1288

2010_07_28_1178

blackened peppers

I shot a story in a restaurant in Los Angeles yesterday – not with my usual full-frame cameras, but instead with the 1.6 crop Canon Rebel T2i / 550d. Why? In part to see how successful I could be in getting the background blur I want and need for tabletop photography in a busy room. Also, because I travel a lot, and having a small, light and usable camera is important at times. Knowing that the dynamic range of the newer crop-chip cameras is on par with the 5D2/1Ds3 cameras, it seemed feasible that this camera could do a stellar job. As I travel a lot, the 550d acts as a backup for my full-frame cameras when on the road – because it is small, light, and has an on-camera flash, which comes in handy now and then!)

I also used inexpensive consumer leneses: Canon 50mm 1.8, the kit zoom lens 18-55 IS, and the 24-85 3.5-4.5) These cheaper lenses are sharp enough most of the the time. But when pointed down, the focus and zoom tend to drift due to gravity, which means a LOT more work and constant refocusing and re-compositing. When working with time constraints, this is a big problem. The more expensive lenses which I use most of the time (70-200 2.8 L, 100mm macro,  50mm 1.4 etc. are much better in this regard. They stay where you put them. And the tripod collars on the 70-200 and macro are real time savers.)

A few issues with the T2i:

Viewfinder is not great for precise manual focus when using narrow depth-of-field! After using the full-frame cameras with their optional precision focusing screens, the T2i’s manual focusing is vague. Stopped down it is no problem, but using a 50mm or 85mm near wide open, you really can not tell precisely where you are focused until after the shot is taken and you can view it on an LCD screen.

I somehow thought I could use my Canon remote cable release for this camera, but no! I ended up using the 2 second timer instead, which is not nearly as convenient or fast as a remote release.

What worked well:

The image quality on this camera is really very good. No one I know of in the publishing world is going to complain about the files coming out of this camera. And these are going to Gourmet Magazine.

Tethered transfer times to the computer are good (I was shooting RAW connected with Canon’s Digital Photo Pro software. )

Battery life is very good. After the shoot the battery still showed just about full-power. The older cameras (including the 5D Classic, T1i…) would chew through batteries much faster, especially when shooting tethered.

In conclusion: The T2i/550d worked very well in this commercial application. Files look great, and everyone is happy. However,  I do not recommend the cheaper consumer lenses for table top photography. While the IQ was fine, their mechanical characteristics made for some frustrating focusing and compositional issues.

While the T2i has been replaced with the T3i, the T2i can be had for good prices now. I bought this one as kit with the 18-55 IS as a refurb directly from Canon for under $500. IMO it makes a great small and light travel camera, and it also makes a good backup for the full frame bodies.

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Canon’s T1i/T2i

by on Feb.01, 2011, under cameras

Thoughts on the Canon T1i/T2i

It seems like every month I am asked about which camera to buy – usually by some friends who are about to have a baby. I have recommended Nikon and Canon entry level DSLRs, and I have gotten raves about just how much better the results are. And it is true – a lot of the time one can get far superior results with a decent DSLR than with a point and shoot. And the control over depth of field can give the images a professional-looking touch.
With cameras like the recently announced Canon T2i (rebel 550) at $900 with a lens, there are many choices which are simply out of reach for many new parents.
And the cameras I am used to using for my fashion and food work (1Ds mark III, 5D Mark II…) are WAY out of price range, and far too heavy for most casual users anyway.
So I set about to get relatively inexpensive SLR and put it through it’s paces on a trip to Martha’s Vineyard.

I got a minty T1i body and a minty 18-55 IS kit lens off of Craigslist in Los Angeles for a total of $500. (The T1i kit sells for $700 new today.) This is a saving of close to $400 over the aforementioned T2i kit with tax.

Well, first things first – the kit performed remarkably well. Metering was spot on using evaluative and partial modes, even when shooting JPEGS. I had read that this camera can be prone to overexposure in bright conditions, but I experienced no such thing. If anything, it underexposed 1/3 to ½ stop, which is perfect in my opinion – so as not to risk blown highlights.

Using the built-in flash at a party worked very well too – and again the exposures and skin tones were dead accurate. What a surprise! (It’s easy to get used to the Pro bodies and to assume that the consumer cameras are going to be lacking in many obvious ways, but that it not what I found with this camera + lens combo.)
Overall I feel it is a great backup camera for someone who as a full-frame camera such as a 5D. IQ is so good that I cannot see any difference in terms of image quality in the applications I have used them for (moderately sized prints for advertising, portfolios and web.)

I would not hesitate to use it as a primary camera, unless absolute control of depth of field is a priority – in which case the larger the sensor the better, and the 5D/1Ds3 would be the better choice.
The T1i and T2i represent amazing value, and have superb image quality and ease of use. Everyone I have recommended them to has been thrilled with the results!
www.ronpurdy.com

sailboat

gayhead

boat

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food, dude (off on a tangent)

by on Sep.26, 2009, under food, lighting & technique, the industry

Ok, just so you all know I am not a one-trick pony, i thought I’d post some of my ‘other’ work. And it’s good. Most of these were recently shot with Laurent Lanneau, who was the chef for the French Ambassador for the United Nations in NY at the time.

In New York it is very difficult to be taken seriously in fashion if you admit to shooting anything other than fashion. If so, people think you must be scatter brained, unfocused, unsure. For the most part NY is a very specialized photography  market – people expect you to do one thing only. But I am fearless, so here goes ;-)

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homeofthevain.com’s Nikola Tamindzic

by on Aug.26, 2009, under lighting & technique

Nikola Tamindzic of www.homeofthevain.com fame came to the July 11 afashionshooter workshop.
Check out a few of his images below, and then check out his very cool fashion site and blog if you haven’t already.

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girl with head

by on Aug.24, 2009, under cameras, lighting & technique, lighting workshops

The second workshop went well. Here is one of the resulting images. More to come…(Canon 5D Mark II, 50mm lens, daylight, handheld)

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Workshops: the Creative Director

by on Jul.02, 2009, under lighting & technique, lighting workshops

donna karan campaign

donna karan campaign

Hello! Christine Be will be the Creative Director for the upcoming workshops, and I thought you might like to see some of her work. Her clients have included Donna Karan, Tiffany & Co., Tom Ford, Estee Lauder, and many more. (*the photos in this post were shot by Mikael Jansson, one of my favorite photographers. And Christine worked on the design*)

She’s just launched her personal web site, and here it is:

http://christinebe.com/

And a few highlights from her site:

cate blanchett, donna karan campaign

cate blanchett, donna karan campaign

cate blanchett, donna karan campaign

cate blanchett, donna karan campaign

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Wow! Canon releases Manual settings for 5D2 video

by on Jun.01, 2009, under cameras

http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/firm-e/eos5dmk2/firmware.html

It really makes a huge difference in terms of the usability of the video function of this camera. Cheers!

Here are some of the details:

Firmware Version 1.1.0 incorporates the following improvements and fixes.

  1. Includes a function to enable the manual exposure setting when shooting movies.
  2. *For details on how to use this function, please download the PDF files from the bottom of this page.

  3. Disables the function of the depth-of-field preview button when images are played back or when the menu screen is displayed on the LCD panel.
  4. Fixes a phenomenon where the peripheral illumination of images cannot be properly corrected, even if the images were captured with the lens peripheral illumination correction function set to Enable.
  5. *Digital Photo Professional software version 3.6.1 or later (for Windows and Macintosh) can be used to automatically correct the peripheral illumination of RAW and JPEG images that were captured in the Peripheral illumination correction setting with cameras that have Firmware Version 1.0.7 or earlier.

  6. Fixes the algorithms of the Auto Lighting Optimizer function when Custom Function C.Fn II-3 Highlight tone priority is enabled.
  7. Fixes incorrect indications on the Arabic, Romanian, Spanish, and Ukrainian menu screens.
  8. Changes the battery information displayed on the camera when using the optional Battery Grip BG-E6.

Firmware Version 1.1.0 is for cameras with firmware up to version 1.0.7. If the camera’s firmware is already version 1.1.0, it is not necessary to update the firmware.

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finally, the workshops!

by on May.15, 2009, under lighting & technique, lighting workshops

The Work In Progress Photography Seminars are finally here!

The first two one-day workshops were held on Saturdays: July 11 and August 22, 2009.  We focused on creating great lighting, composition, working with art directors, hair and makeup artists, models, etc.
I didn’t want this thing to get too boring, so we’ll be working in the amazing Metropolitan Building in NY, where the likes of Steven Meisel, Paolo Roversi, Diego Uchitel, Patrick Demarchelier, Annie Leibovitz, and Me have all worked ;-) We’ll be shooting on one of these two floors:
Second Floor

Second Floor

Third Floor

Third Floor

Here are a few of the tear sheets from the Met Bldg’s promo materials:

http://www.metropolitanbuilding.com/tearsheets/index.html

And here are a few of my advertising images from the Metropolitan Bldg:

So here’s the plan:

There will be a maximim of 5 participants. The format will be fairly loose. I want you to get as much out of it as possible – and to that extent we will be doing what you all want to do the most. The space is huge so we will have plenty of space to spread out. I’ll be concentrating on using daylight and mixing it with strobes, bounce cards, gels, etc. Also discussed will be the pluses and minuses of front lighting, back lighting, side lighting, strobe, tungsten, modeling lights, and such.

So bring your cameras, tripods for sure because it can be a little dark in there, laptops if you want, small reflectors, and whatever else you like to work with.
And since we’ll be in New York, I will also have guest Art Directors/Makeup artists/Stylists who have worked on assignments for Vogue Italia, Kate Spade, Prada, Bergdorf Goodman, Victoria’s Secret, Surface, Allure, New York Times, etc. So part of the day will feel like a real assignment, because it sort of will be ;-)
We will also be using models from Ford Models, New York Models, and elsewhere.
[In case you are wondering if I know what I am doing, well...er...sort of ;-)
Actually, I do have a lot of teaching experience, including teaching photography at Parsons School of Design in New York as well as in Paris. I was also the Assistant Chair of the Photo department there for a number of years.]
===========
Cost of this workshop is $495 per person for the way, which covers: the space, lighting, models, make-up artists, breakfast and lunch. Not included are lodging and transportation.
PayPal e-check is the preferred method of Payment. If you want to pay by regular PayPal or PayPal Credit Card, please add in $14.85 (3%) to help cover the PayPal processing fee. When sending payment, please specify the date of the workshop which you would like to attend. Cancellation must be made 15 days prior to the workshop day in order to receive a refund. Payment should be sent to ron at ron purdy dot com. Also, any questions you may have can be sent to the above e-mail address, or posted in the comments section of this post and I will reply.
~AFS

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